We encourage you to consider your legacy, will and a bequest to Greyhaven Exotic Bird Sanctuary. In turn you will receive peace of mind in knowing that your bird will be taken care of for their lifetime. A minimum bequest will be based upon the number of birds you have, species, and any avian veterinarian care they may require.

If you wish your companion to be placed into our Adoption Program we assure you that we are committed in providing a forever home which will be selected specifically to suit your companion.  You also have our assurance that your companion will share their life with a family or an individual who will provide the love and care they have shared with you.

A Legacy or Gift can be given in many ways to Greyhaven Exotic Bird Sanctuary, such as: money, property and life insurance policies. Regardless of the value a legacy is a living reminder of you and your compassion for birds.

Through a bequest in a will you can invest in Greyhaven and thereby make a difference in the community.  The most common way of leaving a legacy is a charitable gift through a bequest in a will by specifying a monetary gift. 

• Consider that without a will you lose control over your property and assets.
• Specify a monetary gift or a percentage of your assets in your will.
• Charitable gifts include; cash, stocks, mutual funds, term deposits, real estate, vehicles, art, jewellery or insurance.
• Remember loved ones with a memorial gift.
• An accountant or the Canada Revenue Agency will provide you with information pertaining to the tax benefits of planned gifts.
• We recommend that you seek the advice of a barrister/solicitor, accountant, financial or estate planner in regard to your legacy, will and bequest.

There are various websites available for free that offer general information on bequests, will, and gifts. Basic legal information can also be found for free by searching legal websites.  

Disclaimer: We do not support any specific organization, agency or company. 

All bequests and gifts remain with Greyhaven Exotic Bird Sanctuary and are not transferable to the adoptive home if your bird is placed for adoption. If you wish to specify in your will as to the division of your assets discuss this carefully with your barrister or solicitor and accountant.

Click Here for a Will Record

The director of this program is available to answer your questions or concerns.  Please send an e-mail to info@greyhaven.bc.ca or give us a call at (604) 878-7212. 

We wish to express our gratitude for supporting Greyhaven Exotic Bird Sanctuary through your generosity and designating Greyhaven Exotic Bird Sanctuary as a beneficiary in your will, providing a legacy or gift.

Greyhaven Exotic Bird Sanctuary was founded in 1998 and since then has seen many changes and periods of growth.

With the ever-increasing number of exotic birds entering the pet marketplace, the issue of unwanted birds is rapidly growing. It is suspected that in the very near future we will begin to see the unwanted exotic bird problem reach the same magnitude as it is with cats and dogs. Exotic birds become an even greater problem than cats or dogs because of their lengthy life spans and their high demand for our time and attention.

On average, a companion bird will have seven different homes in its lifetime. We, at Greyhaven, like to tell prospective new bird owners that if the thought of cooking, cleaning and entertaining a perpetual 2 year old for the next 10 to 100 years excites them then they will probably make good bird parents! The challenge for rescue groups is the ever-increasing number of animals entering their facilities.

Greyhaven receives calls almost daily from people who want to give up their birds, and in many cases this could have been avoided with proper education. This is why we believe our educational programs are so important and why we are striving to do as much as we possibly can in this area.

How To Help

Greyhaven Exotic Bird Sanctuary was given notice to vacate our premises as the property was undergoing changes and could no longer accommodate the sanctuary. Our transition went very smoothly. We continue to operate all our programs as we always have and are in need of a new sanctuary.

We would like to obtain a new location to house an adoption centre with a quarantine, hospital and education area. If you are aware of anyone that might help us secure new premises, please contact us and we would be more than pleased to arrange a meeting at a mutually agreeable time. We look forward to setting up the sanctuary in a new and improved location as soon as possible. The parrots are all waiting for human companions with BIG hearts to give them a home where they will find security and a sense of belonging.

Please help us continue our important work by helping us find a new shelter location. Thank you for your support.

Call: 604-878-7212 or email: info@greyhaven.bc.ca

What Else Can You Do To Help

Donate- click here.

Support our affiliate programs- click here.

Become a contributing member -click here.

You can donate your time towards the operation of the program. Just a few hours a week can make a difference.

Donate supplies or funds to our effort. Your donations will help provide much- needed resources, like toys, food, cages, medical care and building costs – click here for list.

Sponsor a specific bird that is in need of food, a cage, medical care, and the love of a human companion- click here.

Provide a foster or a permanent home.

Support those that work with birds in trouble.

On average, a companion bird will have seven different homes in its lifetime. They are all waiting for human companions with BIG hearts to give them a home where they will find security and a sense of belonging.

Thank you for your support.

Feather Loss Example

Jamais and Miel – Lutino and Grey Cockatiels. Jamais (Lutino) and Miel (Grey) joined Greyhaven on March 24, 2004.
Problem: Miel was over preened by her mate Jamais.

Jamais and Miel progressed wonderfully and Miel had grown all of her feathers back.
Solution: They were placed in separate cages next to each other and enjoyed supervised playtime with each other.

Here are some guidelines for you:

1. If you are taking your bird outside, make sure the wings are clipped; it doesn’t matter how tame/social the bird is. A sudden noise could scare it, and off it will go!
2. Have photographs taken regularly of your bird(s), close-up shots of irregular markings, etc. (especially in case of Macaws, their face feathers are like fingerprints). Have pictures taken of yourself with the bird(s).
3. If your bird is banded (ringed), make a note of the number/colour of the band and keep it in a safe place. (Note: If your bird has been stolen, it is likely that the first thing the thief will do is remove the band).
4. Look for irregularities in the feathering (a few feathers may be a different colour in an unusual spot).
5. Look for other irregularities (toe missing, chip in beak, etc.) and be able to describe this exactly e.g. in the case of a toe missing, which foot? Which toe?
6. Keep all your veterinary invoices, medical documents for the bird(s).
7. Be able to explain how you got the bird (pet store, breeder, etc.), and keep a copy of the invoice/bill of sale to verify proof of ownership.
8. Does your bird talk? If so, what does he/she say? Does he/she say this word/phrase at a specific event/time of the day?
9. Does your bird have any peculiar habits which might distinguish him/her from another bird of the same species?
10. Golden Rule: “Know your bird”. In the event that you have “lost” your bird, notify your local S.P.C.A., humane society, all local pet stores, breeders (including your own if that’s where you purchased the bird), local bird clubs, societies, organizations, sanctuaries, (the police if it was stolen), put ads in your local papers, etc.

If you belong to a bird club, please ask your newsletter editor to publish this. If your club holds a bird fair, please distribute it. If you know of someone who has lost a bird, please send it along. If you have a personal web page, please put this up. If you are a breeder, please include this in your educational packet. Please forward this to other lists. If you know of lost/found web pages, please ask them to put this up.

Additional suggestions from Scott Lewis are included.
Birds can live for days, weeks, months, and even years after an escape. Never give up.

1. Always look for a grey BEFORE sun-up while it is still dark, and AFTER sundown. They are the most vocal then, and the most active.
2. Day 3 is when they get hungry and try to come in for food, they will go to just about any one at that time if they are tame.
3. ALWAYS have a recording of your grey when he is playing and having the most fun. Play this recording intermittently as you look for him.
4. Throw food on rooftops. Place a small cage on the roof of your house, or anyone’s where they grey has been seen. Tell people to put him in a pillow case, and have friends carrying pillowcases while looking, or small cages. Sometimes greys are caught by inexperienced holders and they don’t know what to do with them.
5. Water hoses do work if you can spray him shortly after his escape. Hit him with as much water as you can all at once. He is heavy from not having exercise, and the water throws him off enough to ground him for a bit. Do not drench just before dark unless you are sure you can get him.
6. If possible contact organizations 50 miles away. Sometimes people find them while traveling and go home with them. Greys can also get that far just flying.
7. Give all the children in the neighborhood a buck and tell them there is more if they can locate your bird. Kids tell on people that are hiding them also. (per Mattie Sue Athan) Police will not help you retrieve a bird from someone else’s home. You have to plan that one very carefully if they decide they want to keep your bird.
8. Have someone watch the bird at all times if he is spotted and you need to go for help.
9. If you try to climb the tree, it often times scares them up. A long branch may be better to coax him onto. Use your head here. Raise his cage to where he is.
10. Have friends and family miles away in other cities watch the lost and found ads.
11. If he is roosted near dark, wait until dark before trying to retrieve him. They don’t fly well at night, and they don’t want to fly, but make sure you don’t miss. You may use a high powered flashlight to momentarily blind the bird while another person nets or grabs the bird.
12. If sighted, keep the mobs of people away, and let the owner try and coax him down. Have your helping friends in tall trees or on roof tops to watch where he goes if he takes off. You NEED spotters prepared and willing.

Additional Information/Comments by Scott Lewis

I might add to all this that if the bird is hanging around but refuses to go in a cage or allow itself to be caught, a Have-A-Heart chipmunk trap may do the trick. This is a small live trap. We recaptured a hawk headed parrot with one. With this sized bird, which is roughly the same size as a Timneh African Grey, anything larger will not work because the bird can go in and out with impunity. We know this from experience. After watching in total frustration as the hawk head repeatedly walked in and out of a Have-A-Heart squirrel trap to eat, we got a chipmunk trap. She went in, she was back.

Place the trap high in the area the bird is frequenting. Remember that height equals safety to parrots and most other birds. Be sure to check it frequently. If the bird is caught, it may panic. And, there is a good chance you will catch native birds, which won’t appreciate it a damned bit. I have released a few extremely irate grackles and such.

For little birds, such as lovebirds and budgies, a sparrow trap works well. We had a black-masked lovebird show up at the aviary. I suppose it was attracted by our birds’ calls. Given that lovebirds can carry PBFD, to which all our birds are very susceptible, two vets told me to get a pellet gun. I didn’t have the heart to do it. But, I caught him in a sparrow trap within a half hour after I set it.

Finally, a hose does work, but don’t be shy. The idea is to totally soak the bird in a big hurry to the extent that it can’t fly. If you’re shy with the hose, you will simply watch a damp bird fly away.

My blue fronted Amazon parrot, Tarah, does not have clipped wings. However like many birds that were clipped during the fledging process, he has never quite learned the kind of flight skills that might earn him the title of a “flyer”. I often said “He’s has his flight feathers, but he doesn’t fly.” One day I learned, the hard way, that this wasn’t exactly true.

I was visiting my parrots as I was moving from southern California to northern California. When I arrived I brought Tarah in his cage to my old bedroom. I opened the door to the cage to allow my bird some much needed free time. Before I knew it, he bolted off his cage, through the bedroom door, took a right and made his way down the hall. He then banked left and flew through the living room. At that very moment my father was just opening the sliding glass door to step out onto the deck. Guess who went through the door too? The deck was on the second floor, so my bird had two stories of lift to assist him on his grand flight down the fairway of the golf course behind the house. Thank goodness he was a green flying brick. He ran out of gas and slowly descended to the soft green grass before a tree offered its branches as refuge. Juiced by adrenalin, my feet barely touched the ground as I ran after my bird.

I have always been very careful about the choices I make having a flighted bird in the house. But I was very surprised by the amazing flight my bird made on that day. Sometimes birds that we think will never fly do indeed fly. Sometimes birds that have flight feathers trimmed surprise us when feathers return. Sometimes experienced flyers get frightened or find themselves in unfamiliar territory. Whatever the situation, there are some strategies that can be very useful to recovering a bird that has flown to a location undesired by you. The following information is provided to prepare you for that day when your bird may find itself airborne and heading in the wrong direction. These strategies apply if you bird has no flight skills or is a world class flying athlete.

Bird is flying away

-Call to your bird loudly as he is flying- it may help him find his way back to you.

-As your bird is flying, do not take your eyes off of him. Note the last place you saw him, the level of his flight, how tired he looked. He may have landed in that area. (Radio or phone contact for a group of people searching can be very helpful in this situation. Grab your cell phone!)

Searching for your bird

-If you have a group of people, spread out and circle the area you last saw him.

-If you cannot locate him, call to him. He may call back. Say words or sounds he knows or mimics. -Most parrots are located by their screams.

-If he has another bird he likes, put that bird in a cage and bring it to the area you last saw him. Walk away from the bird in the cage. It might encourage the bird in the cage to scream. This may inspire the lost bird to scream. Keep talking to a minimum so you can listen for the scream.

-Look carefully in a limited area (within 1 mile) in the early stages of your search. Parrots usually do not go far unless, blown by the wind, chased by a bird of prey or extremely frightened.

Keep in mind your parrot may see you before you see him. When this happens, parrots are sometimes very quiet. This may be because the parrot is more comfortable now that you are present.

-Despite some parrots bright colors, they can be very difficult to see in trees. Look for movement buried in the trees as opposed to your whole bird perched prominently on the tree.

You have located the bird, but he is out of reach

-Once you find you bird, relax (unless the bird is in immediate danger.) It is better to let the bird sit where he is (if he is inaccessible) while you work out a strategy. Do not frantically try to grab the bird, hose or scare him down.

-If the bird has just landed. He will probably not fly again (if at all) for awhile.

-Bring the bird’s favorite person and/or favorite bird friend (in a cage) to the area where your bird is located.

-Bring favorite food items, familiar food bowls and the bird’s cage if possible.

-Be careful not to ask your bird to fly from a great height or a steep angle. Try to position yourself (or bird buddy, or bird cage) to allow short flights or short climbs to lower places.

-Try to lure your bird to fly or climb to branches/objects that are similar to those upon which he is sitting if possible. A bird may be too frightened to climb onto a distinctly different perch. (For example, the bird might be afraid to climb off of a tree onto a fence.) If you have no other option, expect the process to be slower and be patient with your bird as he builds his confidence. He may also fly again if he touches the new perch and is frightened by it.

-Do not raise unfamiliar objects up to your bird to have him step onto it. More than likely this will only scare your bird to fly farther away. If you have a familiar item, you may have a chance that the bird will step onto it. Keep in mind things like ladders, people climbing trees, cherry pickers etc. may also scare your bird. Go extremely slowly if you resort to using these items. Stop any action if your bird looks like he wants to fly away.

-Try to call your bird down when his body language indicates he is ready to try to come down. Do not constantly call.

-Try hiding from your bird on occasion. This will create a level of anxiety in your bird which may cause him to try to come to you once you reappear. Usually birds will scream and or start moving around a lot when they are ready to make an effort to return to you. If you notice this activity, come out from hiding.

-If you hear your bird screaming while you are hiding, he may be ready to fly or is already in the air. Come out of hiding right away. Most parrots scream when they are flying in this type of situation.

Birds also often relieve themselves and also scream right before they fly. Be alert for this. You may need to see where your bird flies. Be ready to run if necessary.

-Avoid having a crowd of people around the bird’s favorite person. A scared bird may not want to fly into a crowd of strangers. Give the bird’s favorite person lots of room.

The sun is setting and your bird is still out.

-Parrots will usually fly again shortly before the sun starts to set. This is probably your last opportunity to get your bird back before he will begin to roost for the night. Take advantage of it. You can try to get the bird “pumped” up by yelling and creating a level of excitement. This may encourage one last flight.

-As the sun starts to set, your bird will start to fluff his feathers and get ready to roost for the night. -At this point it is best to just allow him to go to sleep. Keep an eye on him until the sun has set completely. Remember his exact location.

-Before the sun rises the next day, return to that location. Your bird should still be there, unless he was frightened in the night (owls can cause this).

-Usually by 8:30 or 9:00 AM your bird will be ready to fly again or make an attempt to get to you. Repeat the steps described in the section “You have located your bird, but he is out of reach”.

Your bird has flown off and after 24 hours of searching he has not been spotted.

-Contact the following people and let them know you are looking for your bird. If a person finds your bird they may contact one of these organizations.

Call animal control

Call the SPCA/humane society

Call local veterinarians

Call local zoos

Call local pet shops

Call local police

-Place an ad in the classified section of the paper for a “lost” bird.

Note: Don’t give out the bird’s band number. If your bird accidentally falls into the wrong hands this could lead to removal of the band.

-Check the classified section of the paper for “found” bird. Answer all ads. People are sometimes unaware of what they have found. A Congo African grey may be mistaken for the mythical red tailed pigeon by a helpful stranger who is unfamiliar with parrots.

-Post flyers that state “lost bird” in the areas you last saw your bird. You may also wish to offer a reward as incentive for people to call.

-Often times a bird is found within 24 hours of his disappearance. The trick is to find the person who found your bird before you.

Do not give up

The key to getting a bird back is perseverance. Do not accept that you will not get the bird back once you have lost sight of him or her. As a professional bird trainer that free flys many types of birds on a regular basis, I can attest that parrots are often the easiest type of bird to locate and recover. Trust me – nothing is more frustrating than searching for the silent, but observant owl who has buried himself in the bushes and has watched you walk by 100 times! Thankfully our parrots often seek out human or bird companionship if and when they have a big flight adventure.

Copyright 2005 © Good Bird Inc. First appeared in Good Bird Magazine Volume1 Issue1 Spring 2005. To learn more about products and services to help you train your parrot visit http://www.goodbirdinc.com/

Barbara has been a professional in the field of animal training since 1990.
She owns and operates a company, Good Bird, Inc., (www.GoodBirdInc.com)) that provides behavior and training products to the companion parrot community. These products include Good Bird Magazine, books, videos, and training/behavior workshops. Barbara has provided behavior workshops and/or animal training presentations at the Association of Avian Veterinarians conference, The American Federation of Aviculture conference, The International Parrot Conference at Loro Parque, Parrot Festival, The International Association of Avian Trainers and Educators conference, American Association of Zoo Keepers conference, Association of Zoos and Aquariums conference, The Parrot Society of Australia conference and many more. She is a  past president of the International Association of Avian Trainers and Educators (www.IAATE.org) and served  on the Board of Directors from 1997-2009. Her expertise has been utilized by the US Dept. of Agriculture, Fish and Wildlife Service and numerous international professional organizations.

She is the author of “Good Bird! A Guide to Solving Behavior Problems in Companion Parrots” by Avian Publications and also “The Parrot Problem Solver. Finding Solutions to Aggressive Behavior” by TFH Publications. She is also the producer of the Good Bird Parrot Behavior and Training DVD series.

Barbara’s experience also includes consulting on animal training in zoos and other animal related facilities. She has been a part of the development and production of more than 15 different free flight education programs. Barbara continues to provide consulting services to zoos, nature centers and other animal facilities through her other company Animal Training and Consulting Services. In her career she has trained animals, trained staff, and/or presented shows at facilities around the world.

It has been reiterated for years in the companion parrot literature…your parrot must obey the step up command! Obey and command. For me these words carry strong implications. I visualize a parrot with no desire to step up onto the hand being forced to comply. This usually involves maneuvers such as a hand pushing into a bird’s chest, quickly scooping a bird onto the hand, or peeling toes off of a perch. For a positive reinforcement trainer such as myself this is very unpleasant to picture. Why one might ask? Certainly the mentioned strategies can create the desired resulting behavior of a bird on the hand. However the process of training through force involves strategies that rely on aversive experiences. Pushing a hand into a bird’s chest, scooping or peeling toes are uncomfortable experiences for a parrot, no matter how minimal the aversive is.

Fallout from Force
There can be serious repercussions with lasting effects from using aversives to gain cooperation. One of the most common results is a parrot that learns to bite in response to the presence of a hand. The important word in that sentence is “learns”. Parrots are not hatched with an inherent aggressive response to hands. This behavior is learned through repeated exposure to unpleasant interactions involving hands. Often as a last resort, a parrot bites in an effort to deter the persistent pushy hand. Should the bite produce the desired results; the bird can learn in that one encounter that biting works! And it will be likely to use it next time a hand invades its space.

This is not to say one should ignore a bite to dissuade the aggressive behavior. A more trust building approach is to heed the parrot’s body language prior to biting. Typically a parrot will present other body language that indicates discomfort well before a bite is landed. By carefully observing body language and making adjustments so that the bird appears as comfortable as possible, a sensitive avian caregiver is more likely to gain cooperation without aggressive behavior.

The same can be said for fear responses. Many likely have met a parrot who will step onto an arm, or shoulder, but will do everything in its power to avoid a hand. Again it would be an odd adaptation for a parrot to come into this world with an innate fear of hands. More realistic is the explanation that the bird’s experience with hands taught it to display fear responses.

Side Bar
Fallout that has occurred from forcing parrots to step up
– How many birds now bite due to forced step up behavior?
– How many birds are given up due to biting problems?
– How many birds are afraid of hands and flee to the back of their cages?
– How many birds are relegated to cages with little attention or enrichment because they learned to bite or are afraid?
– How many birds suffer fates worse than this because they responded to force with understandable aggressive behavior and/or fear responses?

Positive Reinforcement Offers Hopes
Unfortunately it can be challenging to retrain a parrot to step up onto a hand for positive reinforcement after it has learned aggressive behavior (and/or fear responses) towards hands. But the good news is it can be done. This is particularly important to note as so many birds are often given up, left with little or no attention, or suffer fates worse than that due to being labeled a biter or no fun, through no fault of their own. It is always a sad moment for me to encounter a parrot that has learned aggressive behavior. It is sad mainly because it never had to be if the people in its life had been given the opportunity to learn about positive reinforcement.

Having worked in free flighted educational bird programs for years it was quite a shock when I first discovered the thousands of parrots that had fear responses or showed aggressive behavior towards hands in the companion parrot community. This observation lead me to conclude that the difference is information. The community training flighted parrots for shows has been raised on a positive reinforcement approach to training. Flighted parrots can easily choose to leave should a trainer resort to negative reinforcement to force a bird to step up onto the hand. Therefore negative reinforcement and its drawbacks are usually not a part of the training strategy.

The companion parrot community, on the other hand, has traditionally been fed advice that heavily promotes the use of negative reinforcement. This in turn has lead to a plethora of troubled birds. This means an important opportunity lays waiting for companion parrot caregivers. With positive reinforcement training finally making its way to many avian caregivers, parrots and their owners now have hope. No longer do parrots have to obey, instead they can learn stepping up results in desired consequences. They can learn to look forward to stepping up!

Positive Reinforcement Vs Negative Reinforcement
Change can be difficult. And those accustomed to using negative reinforcement to create behavior often present solid evidence as to why there is no need to consider other strategies. These arguments include the statement that negative reinforcement works! This is true. Negative reinforcement does work. However effectiveness is not always the measure one needs to consider as a conscientious caregiver. The reason is that the process of learning through negative reinforcement is not a pleasant one. Negative reinforcement is also sometimes called escape or harassment training. The animal complies to avoid the aversive experience. Not exactly a trust building process. In addition negative reinforcement training strategies create a bare minimum required response. Animals only do what is necessary to avoid the aversive experience.

There is also the misconception that negative reinforcement will create faster more reliable responses. While results can be immediate, it should be noted that quick, efficient, reliable, repeatable responses can also be attained with positive reinforcement.

Some argue that in an emergency the bird must step up quickly. In a true emergency, such as the house is on fire, it is understood that one may do whatever is required to ensure his or her parrot is safe. However sometimes the lines get fuzzy on what constitutes an emergency. Being late for work is not an emergency enough for this trainer to abandon her positive reinforcement training strategies. In the long run I will get more reliable performance of the behavior if I take the time to commit to using positive reinforcement even when it is slightly inconvenient to me. In my experience there is no real justification for the use of negative reinforcement for the behavior of step up in most cases.

Tips on Training Step Up with Positive Reinforcement
A key component of training with positive reinforcement is giving the bird choice. Rather than forcing oneself on the parrot, the goal is to teach the parrot choosing to come to the caregiver results in desired consequences. These consequences can be food treats, head scratches, toys, attention, etc. Identify what the bird likes and use this to reinforce approximations towards the desired goal behavior of stepping up onto the hand.

An easy way to teach a parrot to move in a desired direction is to train the bird to orient its beak towards a target. The target can be any chosen object. The target can then be gradually positioned closer and closer to the hand identified for the step up behavior. The identified hand should remain stationary and in a position that facilitates an easy step onto the hand for the bird. The goal is not to move the hand towards the bird, but for the bird to voluntarily move to the hand by following the target.

A bird that has had an unpleasant history with hands may show signs of apprehension or aggressive behavior as it ventures closer to the hand. Reinforce generously the frightened bird that dares to move in closer. If the parrot shows aggressive behavior, gently remove the hand as well as any positive reinforcers being made available to the bird for just a few seconds. This not only demonstrates to the bird that its body language was understood and acknowledged, but it also removes the opportunity to gain positive reinforcers. When this strategy is paired with reinforcement of the desired behavior, the bird can quickly learn to increase calm behavior and decrease aggressive behavior without the use of training strategies that rely on aversives.

Eventually the parrot can learn to voluntarily step up onto the hand to earn positive reinforcers. While the bird is learning to step up, the targeting behavior can be used to help direct the parrot where to go if needed for basic husbandry duties. This helps avoid caregivers resorting back to negative reinforcement training strategies to move birds during the re-training process.

Conclusion
A positive reinforcement approach embraces giving animals choices to participate. Caregivers can try to make it easy for parrots to choose to present the desired behavior, such as step up, followed by ample rewards. The result is a companion parrot that eagerly anticipates interacting with its caregivers. One of the joys of sharing ones life with a companion parrot is the relationship that can be forged between the caregiver and the bird. Positive reinforcement fosters trust and that incredibly rewarding relationship. If there is one thing you change in your handling strategy, make it this. Move over step up command….. here comes the step up request.

Copyright 2007© Good Bird Inc. First appeared in PsittaScene Vol 19 Number 3. Cannot be reprinted without permission.

To learn more about products and services to help you train your parrot visit www.GoodbBirdInc.com

Barbara has been a professional in the field of animal training since 1990.
She owns and operates a company, Good Bird, Inc., (www.GoodBirdInc.com)) that provides behavior and training products to the companion parrot community. These products include Good Bird Magazine, books, videos, and training/behavior workshops. Barbara has provided behavior workshops and/or animal training presentations at the Association of Avian Veterinarians conference, The American Federation of Aviculture conference, The International Parrot Conference at Loro Parque, Parrot Festival, The International Association of Avian Trainers and Educators conference, American Association of Zoo Keepers conference, Association of Zoos and Aquariums conference, The Parrot Society of Australia conference and many more. She is a past president of the International Association of Avian Trainers and Educators (www.IAATE.org) and served on the Board of Directors from 1997-2009. Her expertise has been utilized by the US Dept. of Agriculture, Fish and Wildlife Service and numerous international professional organizations.

She is the author of “Good Bird! A Guide to Solving Behavior Problems in Companion Parrots” by Avian Publications and also “The Parrot Problem Solver. Finding Solutions to Aggressive Behavior” by TFH Publications. She is also the producer of the Good Bird Parrot Behavior and Training DVD series.

Barbara’s experience also includes consulting on animal training in zoos and other animal related facilities. She has been a part of the development and production of more than 15 different free flight education programs. Barbara continues to provide consulting services to zoos, nature centers and other animal facilities through her other company Animal Training and Consulting Services. In her career she has trained animals, trained staff, and/or presented shows at facilities around the world.

Macaws on bicycles, cockatoos raising flags, conures snatching dollar notes from audience members. These are images that often come to mind when the word “training” is mentioned in conjunction with parrots. While it is true that training is responsible for those resulting entertaining tricks, this short list of behaviors is a gross understatement of the endless potential training with positive reinforcement affords avian species in our care.

Training is simply teaching. When we train an animal with positive reinforcement we give it information on what it can do to earn desired outcomes. What behaviors we choose to teach are limitless. In addition to training birds for entertainment, we can use this form of communication to address behavior problems, to manage birds on exhibit, to teach birds to cooperate in their own medical care and/or to allow us to facilitate captive breeding practices.

Training is Science Based

Although training birds in general is not a new concept to avian enthusiasts, understanding the science behind training is just recently gaining momentum. The science behind training is called applied behavior analysis. This science focuses on how organisms learn. And truly we are all students of this science on a daily basis whether we are conscious of our application of its principles or not. Current trends in animal training choose to focus on using elements of this science that focus on kind and gentle strategies to create desired behavior and reduce undesired behavior. This includes avoiding the use of aversive punishment and negative reinforcement. In its place, trainers learn the art and skill of applying positive reinforcement to gain cooperation. (See definition of terms in side bar)

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Positive Reinforcement: The presentation of a stimulus following a behavior that serves to maintain or increase the frequency of the behavior. Another name for positive reinforcement is reward training. Positive reinforcers tend to be valued or pleasant stimuli. To get positive reinforcers, learners often enthusiastically exceed the minimum effort necessary to gain them. Recommended!

Negative Reinforcement: The removal of a stimulus following a behavior that serves to maintain or increase the frequency of the behavior. Another name for negative reinforcement is escape/avoidance training. Negative reinforcers tend to be aversive or unpleasant stimuli. To avoid negative reinforcers, learners often only work to the level necessary to avoid them.  Not recommended!

Punishment: The presentation of an aversive stimulus, or removal of a positive reinforcer, that serves to decrease or suppress the frequency of the behavior. The use of punishment tends to produce detrimental side effects such as counter aggression, escape behavior, apathy and fear. Also, punishment doesn’t teach the learner what to do to earn positive reinforcement. Not Recommended!

One of the benefits of viewing behavior and learning from a scientific approach is that we can avoid the pitfalls of relying on anecdotal information and/or anthropomorphic interpretations of behavior. In addition as a recognized science, the information belongs to everyone. No single individual has ownership of the methods or principles. They are available for each and everyone one of us to learn and apply. By understanding the science we are able to remove misconceptions and erroneous interpretations of behavior. The science also teaches us that even innate behaviors are modifiable. And most importantly we learn to create and modify behavior with kinder and gentler methods. This allows reduction in stress, trust building bonds with caretakers, the avoidance of learned aggressive behaviors and the many other drawbacks often associated when aversive strategies are used to influence behavior.

The Potential of Positive Reinforcement Training

In many ways the parrot community is still in its infancy as it identifies the potential formalized training programs have to vastly improve avian care and management practices. Positive reinforcement training has long been a part of the management and care of species such as captive whales and dolphins. Dog training has made tremendous changes in the last ten years towards focusing on positive reinforcement training. While this highly effective and far kinder method of influencing animal behavior is ready and waiting to be exploited to its fullest in the avian community, a movement of positive reinforcement training devotees has been working hard to spread the word to parrot enthusiasts around the world.

What these supporters have learned is that positive reinforcement training dispels many common misconceptions that currently exist about parrots. No longer do they believe that getting bit by their parrot is inevitable, no longer do they worry if their bird is perched higher than chest level, no longer do they assume their parrot will misbehave with strangers, and so on. They have learned that by applying positive reinforcement training strategies, they can teach their bird to eagerly present almost any behavior they can imagine. Positive reinforcement trainers commonly teach their birds to voluntarily present the following practical and useful behaviors.

Step up onto the hand

Step up onto the hand of other people

Enter a kennel or other travel container

Play in a towel

Step onto a scale

Go back into the cage

Stay on desired play stands or cages

Interact without aggressive behavior with other birds

Positive reinforcement trainers often also train behaviors that may seem focused on entertainment. However they also serve a very real function of building trust and enriching their birds lives. These include the following

Touching a target

Wave with a foot

Wave with a wing

Stretch wings out

Nod “yes”

Shake head “no”

Turn around

Retrieve an object

Talk on cue

Many of these seemingly impractical behaviors are also easily shaped into medical behaviors such allowing nail trims or clipping feathers without restraint. Some zoological facilities have trained parrots to allow the following medical behaviors without restraint (Video of which can be seen at Parrot Behavior and Training Workshops presented by the author)

All over tactile exam

Cloacal sampling

Choanal sampling

Ultrasound

Radiograph

Cloacal temperature reading

Nebulization

Masking for anesthesia

Blood draws

In addition to providing the tools to train novel behaviors, understanding the principles of applied behavior analysis gives parrot enthusiasts the foundation needed to address behavior problems. Behavior problems such as biting, screaming, bonding to one person, fear of leaving the cage and feather destructive behavior are many times the result of a parrot learning what to do to create an environment that works for the bird. Unfortunately humans often inadvertently reinforce or create the undesired behavioral response the parrot is presenting. By understanding the function of the behavior and identifying the antecedents and consequences that serve to maintain the behavior, owners can proceed to develop strategies based on applied behavior analysis principles to address problem behavior.

Learning How to Train

Surprising to most, training with positive reinforcement is relatively simple. As with any skill it can be practiced. The more it is practiced, typically the better one becomes at its application. Many behaviors can be trained in one or two twenty minute training sessions. The following are a few terms that are helpful to know prior to delving further into the nuances of training with positive reinforcement.

Cue: A signal that tells the animal what to do. Many trainers use verbal and/or hand cues.

Bridge or bridging stimulus: A signal or marker that indicates when an animal has done something correct. It bridges the gap in time between when the animal did something correct and when it will receive positive reinforcement. Some examples of bridges are clickers, whistles, the word “good” or a touch.

Shaping a behavior with approximations: Once a desired behavior is identified, it is possible to look at that behavior as a series of small steps. The first step must be learned before moving on to the next step. Eventually all the steps when joined together lead up to the final desired behavior. Approximations are used quite often to train behaviors. This strategy can be used to train a bird to step up onto the hand, go onto a scale, step onto strangers, enter a kennel, wave and much more.

Training with approximations is like a dance between the trainer and the bird. The bird may take a few steps or approximations forward, but if the bird is hesitant to move forward more, the trainers may choose to accept a step that had been mastered previously. The training may remain at this step for a few repetitions as the bird gains confidence before a more challenging step is attempted again. There is a constant shifting and adjusting to meet the capabilities of the bird, but eventually more steps are taken forward then backward and the bird learns what the trainer is trying to teach. It is an intricate dance and one that makes training such an interesting activity. It challenges a trainer’s skills. Very rarely does training become boring. Each species, each individual, each behavior brings a new set of criteria to the table.

Using the terms described above and positive reinforcement as a training strategy we can explore the process of training a behavior. The first step is to identify a behavior to train. When training by shaping with approximations, it is helpful to describe in writing what each step might be. This can help a trainer visualize the process. In addition it is important to identify a cue for the behavior, a bridge and the type of positive reinforcement preferred by the training subject.

At first the bird will not understand the cue. Therefore the first step is to try to create the situation in which the bird will perform a small part of the behavior. For example to teach a bird to step up on the hand for positive reinforcement, sunflower seeds may be used to lure the bird towards the hand. If the bird takes a step towards the hand, the bird is “bridged” (the bridge signal is given) and offered a seed. While the bird is making the step towards the hand, a cue can be offered, such as the verbal cue “step up”. This associates the cue with the action of moving towards the hand. Over time the bird will make the connection that the verbal cue “step up” means to go to the hand. Eventually the goal is to phase out showing the sunflower seeds to encourage the performance of the behavior and only offer the cue.

When training a new behavior the sequence is as follows:

1. Presentation of cue by the trainer
2. Bird performs behavior or approximation towards desired behavior
3. Bridge is given by the trainer for correct performance of behavior or approximation
4. Positive reinforcement is offered by the trainer
5. This process repeats itself as each approximation is added, until the final goal behavior is achieved.

Once a bird has gone through the approximations and clearly understands that the cue means to perform a particular behavior, the use of the bridge can be phased out for that behavior. The bridge is a good tool to help clearly communicate what is desired. However, once the behavior is learned it is not necessary. If the bird has problems with the behavior or is learning a new behavior, the bridge can always be reintroduced.

Although the bridge can eventually be removed, it is not recommended to phase out the positive reinforcement. Over time the bird will lose its motivation to perform the behavior. Reinforcement increases the likelihood the bird will perform a behavior; aversive or no consequences can decrease that likelihood.

Training a Retrieve

Learning new behaviors is mentally and physically stimulating for companion parrots. It is no secret that parrots are some of the most intelligent animals on earth. Having the opportunity to exercise their brain power is highly enriching. The following example describes the approximations one can take to teach a simple retrieve. It is also a great exercise for new trainers to use to practice applying the principles of training.

1. Set the bird on a small perch (approximately one foot long). This will limit where the bird might choose to go.
2. Offer from your hand a small toy, such as a plastic bead, or other small but heavy object. Usually birds will pick it up with their beaks out of curiosity. If the bird will not pick it up, try hiding a piece of food behind the bead so the bird must touch the bead with its beak. In this training scenario, the presentation of the bead may act as a visual cue, but you can also use a verbal cue such as “pick it up”. (Later this will be useful if you want the bird to retrieve other objects.) Bridge and reinforce when the bird touches the bead with its beak. Continue shaping touching the bead until the bird picks it up.
3. Hold a small bowl under the bird’s beak.  Eventually the bird will tire of the bead and drop it. Catch the bead in the bowl. Give the bridging stimulus you have chosen when the bead hits the bowl bottom. This can be clicking a clicker one time, or saying the word “good”. Decide the type of bridging stimulus you will use before you begin the session. After the bridging stimulus is given, offer the bird positive reinforcement. The positive reinforcement can be a sunflower seed or other food treat. Other forms of positive reinforcement can be offered such a head scratches or attention. Just be sure the bird finds these things positively reinforcing.
4. Repeat this process several times.
5. After several repetitions, move the bowl over to the side slightly. The bird will probably not drop the bead in the bowl. If this happens, do not bridge or reinforce. Offer the bead again. Allow the bird to miss and not get reinforced one or two times.
6. Then go back to trying to catch the bead in the bowl. Bridge and reinforce.
7. Try moving the bowl to the side again. If the bird gets the bead in the bowl offer a large reinforcement. If he misses, go back to step 3 and work up to step 5 again. Keep repeating this process until the bird understands the bead must go into the bowl in order to get the reinforcement.
8. Once the bird gets the concept of the bead going into the bowl, start moving the bowl a little farther away. You will find you may have to go through steps 3-7 again. But eventually, you will be able to hold the bead on one end of the perch and the bowl on the other.
9. Once this concept is understood by the bird, you can try switching the object to something else. When you do this, go back to holding the bowl under the bird’s beak and catching the object. Gradually approximate the bowl farther away. This should go quickly this time. Once the concept is well understood, try placing the bird and bowl on another surface such as a table. Again, you may need to repeat steps 3-7 to get on track. But eventually the bird will learn to generalize and perform the behavior in different environments and with different objects.

Conclusion

The good news about training is that it is not that hard to do. Understanding a few simple concepts can get parrot enthusiasts started on a path of discovery. Not only can training with positive reinforcement provide entertaining diversions, but it can also create well behaved parrots, reduce stress, avoid aggressive responses, and create an eager and enthusiastic participant. Most importantly it fosters the human animal bond that draws us to these fascinating creatures.

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Freidman, S.G. (2005). “He Said, She Said, Science Says.” Good Bird Magazine. Volume 1 issue 1.

Friedman, S.G. (2005) “Straight Talk about Parrot Behavior” Good Bird Magazine Volume 1 Issue 3.

Friedman, S.G. and Heidenreich, B. (2005) “Pick a Principle” Good Bird Magazine. Volume 1 Issue 4.

Heidenreich, B. (2004) “Clicking with your Bird!” www.ParrotChronicles.com. Nov-Dec.  Issue 19.

Heidenreich, B.E. (2004). Training Birds for Medical and Husbandry Behaviors. Proceedings Association of Avian Veterinarians annual conference.

Barbara has been a professional in the field of animal training since 1990.   She owns and operates a company, Good Bird, Inc., (www.GoodBirdInc.com) that provides behavior and training products to the companion parrot community. These products include Good Bird Magazine (www.goodbirdinc.com/magazine.html) books, videos www.goodbirdinc.com/books.html ) , and training/behavior workshops. She is the author of “Good Bird! A Guide to Solving Behavior Problems in Companion Parrots” by Avian Publications and also “The Parrot Problem Solver. Finding Solutions to Aggressive Behavior” by TFH Publications. She is the past president of the International Association of Avian Trainers and Educators (www.IAATE.org).

Barbara’s experience also includes consulting on animal training in zoos and other animal related facilities. Her specialty is free flight bird training. She has been a part of the development and production of more than 15 different free flight education programs. Barbara continues to provide consulting services to zoos, nature centers and other animal facilities through her other company Animal Training and Consulting Services (www.ATandCS.com). In her career she has trained animals, trained staff, and/or presented shows at facilities around the world.

Copyright 2006 Good Bird Inc. First Appeared in Bird Keeper Magazine. www.BirdKeeper.com.au. Cannot be reprinted without permission.

Forming a bond with an older bird who is either rescued or adopted is not as difficult as it may seem. The bond will grow very slowly and surely. First and foremost the bird needs to feel secure in order to start to establish a bond with you. At one time in your birds life when he was a little baby he was most likely fed either by his natural parents or a breeder. The mushy food or formula was most likely warm and tasty to him. This may have been the only time in his life that he felt secure and truly loved.

Therefore I find it will be much to your advantage to take the bird back to this particular stage in his life to bring back a feeling of love and warmth and security. It will start the bonding process between the two of you.

Beginning on the very first night of the birds arrival what I suggest is that about a half hour before the bird is to go to sleep for the night you can prepare a small bowl of warm oatmeal. I usually use Quaker Instant Cinnamon and Spice. Even though it has some sugar in it I have never found a parrot who doesn’t love it and you want to give him something he’s definitely going to love to eat. Set the bird on the counter with the bowl and let him have a taste. Then proceed to spoon feed him with a regular teaspoon. He will love it. Talk softly to him as your feeding him. He may even bob up and down just like a baby.

The bird on the counter is going to be at around your waist level which is a good level for you to be working with him. He’ll realize you are in control since you will be so much taller than him. The warm mush is going to make him forget his fears for a few minutes. Your soft voice and talking will soothe him as well. After the meal his beak may be quite messy. Even if it’s not you need to tell him he’s made a big mess and now you’ve just got to clean up that sticky messy beak. I use the end of a wet paper towel. Show it to him and tell him you’re going to use it to clean his messy beak. Very slowly approach his beak with the wet paper towel. Tell him he can’t go to bed with a sticky beak so this has to be done. It may take a while. But slowly and carefully you can get his beak cleaned up. His beak was most likely cleaned in a similar fashion when he was a baby. He should allow you to do this.

I feel this procedure should be done every night for the first five to seven days. In the process of repeating this routine you will be gaining his trust. He will be going to bed with a warm full crop even if he’s only picking at his regular food. He will be allowing you access to touch his beak something that will prove very handy in the years to come. You will also have him very used to being on the counter top which is the best place I feel to work with a sick or injured bird. I did this with both Ollie and Spike and found it really assisted both the birds and myself in starting the bonding process. Ollie is not a messy eater but Spike and Mozart could win a contest for the worlds messiest beaks. They both get set on the countertop every night after dinner for their “beaky wash.” It saves me a lot of cleaning up from them scraping the mess on their playgrounds or cage bars. Spike even lifts his left foot – the one he always holds his food in – and lets me wash the dirty foot every night after his beaky wash. I do not think I ever could have accomplished this without the little oatmeal ritual we followed.

I started this with Ollie on about the third day because he wasn’t eating well and he continuously cried the baby Macaw cry. As soon as I started this his crying stopped and he started eating. I think they don’t quite know how to start to form a bond so we have to show them. They are also hurting and afraid. It was so successful with Ollie once I started it that I did it from day one with Spike with tremendous results.

First off, the ‘milk’ of the coconut is VERY good for our birds, and they will love love love you for forever for sharing this unique treat with them;

IF you still have a whole one:

Wash and scrub the coconut. Then put holes in each of the three eye’s and drain coconut liquid (milk. Place shell in a low oven 250 for an hour or so (until shake it and you can hear it move). Remove, allow it to cool. Then if you like you can do two things, cut them in half for use in dozens of different ways or pick a clean spot on concrete or driveway. Lay down a tarp (clean), throw nut onto the concrete and it should break. Or, you can use a hammer. It will break into pieces and you then drill a hole in the chunks and use them as hand toys, additions to boings, rope, whatever.

If you just score it around, you also can take the hammer and gently tap it all the way around and it should snap clean for you.

Then the meat is taken inside and you can serve raw, freeze, grate, dry then store or???

IF you have already cut them in half or in sections:

Coconuts are the perfect item to buy. To dry I break in 1/2, put on cookie sheet w/ the meat side down. Turn oven on 250 slide in and back shell and all till you start to smell coconut. About an hour I think. While still hot take a spoon and scoop out. Keep the shells. Run the meat through the grater on food processor. Put in zip lock, and freeze. Sprinkle on top of fresh veggies. The shells make wonderful toys. Drill a hole and hang a bell instant fun for hours.

P.S. According to the book called the Visual Food Encyclopedia and it says that an unopened coconut can be stored at room temperature for 2-4 months. Once opened it can be refrigerated for 1 week or frozen for up to 9 months. It also says that when you buy a coconut to look for an un-cracked coconut that still contains water (shake it) and it should have intact, firm “eyes” that are free of mold. (unfortunately it is impossible to be sure whether or not the pulp is rancid without opening the shell).

The easier the white pulp is to remove the more ripe the coconut is.

Hope this helps. Happy toy making.